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Menampilkan postingan yang diurutkan menurut relevansi untuk kueri p. Urutkan menurut tanggal Tampilkan semua postingan

Jumat, 25 April 2014

Ever heard of Charles James? Wonderful 1950s dresses at the Met, New York.

Dear Reader

Charles James was one of the most influential dress designers of the 1940s and 1950s. Yet, surprisingly, he is little known in the UK. 
Charles James gowns. Photograph by Cecil Beaton
Even though he was British, he is often called 'the first American couturier' as he spent most of his career in the USA.
Charles James 1952, Photograph by Michael A Vaccaro
James was hugely admired by other prominent designers of the 40s and 50s. Christian Dior described James' work as "poetry" and credited him with being the true originator of the 'New Look' of 1947, as it was inspired by a conversation with James.
Charles James suit, Photograph by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue July 1951
James created fabulous and innovative designs for many famous figures. From royalty to burlesque performers, his client list is quite a fascinating read in itself. Iconic actress Marlene Dietrich, jewellery designer Elsa Peretti, burlesque performer Gypsy Rose Lee, famous socialite Babe Paley, and designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel all wore his fabulous dresses.
British actress Joan Fontaine in Charles James, Photograph by Horst P Horst, 1937
New York socialite Babe Paley in Charles James Ballgown 1950
He was a lifelong friend of fashion photographer Cecil Beaton, whose famous photo (at the top of this post) of society beauties in James' gowns sums up for me all the glamour of the 40s and 50s. 
Early James designs. Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Vogue 1936
James photographed by Cecil Beaton, 1936
Charles James with model, Photograph by Cecil Beaton
James was notoriously difficult to work with and hugely egotistical, and called himself an artist and "the greatest couturier of the western world"! He sniffed at Beaton as a mere social-climbing artisan. Beaton retaliated by saying James was a "little monster". But the two remained firm friends and often worked together to produce some of fashions most iconic images!
Charles James 'Butterfly' Gown, Photograph by Cecil Beaton
James Gown, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Vogue 1946
Charles James 'Swan' Gown, 1955, Photograph by Cecil Beaton
...And the same 'Swan' gown photographed by Horst P Horst, Vogue 1951
There is a wonderful exhibition of Charles James' work opening in May at the Met Museum in New York. How I would love to see those dresses close up! So let's end with a few more of his fabulous creations...
Photograph by Horst P Horst, Vogue 1940
Illustration and Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Vogue 1944
Charles James hat, inspired by Rolls Royce 'Spirit of Ecstasy', Vogue 1952
Thanks for dropping in - and hope you've enjoyed this whistle-stop tour! 
Love 
Helena
Heavenly Vintage Brides

All photographs courtesy of 
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Vogue Archive
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Sabtu, 11 Oktober 2014

6 Things for the Last Two Days

Oy. So it turns out that I am getting super crappy at blogging. The best excuse I can think of is that I am reaching this phase where I am lazy? Like I can just sit and stare into nothing, and get nothing done, so I focus my energies on my actual job with little left. This is a huge shift in my personality, because in general I hate getting nothing done. But here I am on Saturday realizing I haven't blogged anything for days. I have decided that I am Frodo at the end of the Lord of the Rings (should I start speaking with a slightly weird accent? What is up with Elijah Wood's "a"s in that movie?) and that the Ring has completely taken over, ruined my skin, and fried my brain. Perhaps The Boy, like Sam, will carry the blog as my brain turns to mush and I start tackling Andy Serkis. I can guess The Boy's Top Three for the day- Skittles, Making fun of the other couple in our baby class, and finding out that Carrie Fisher is Debbie Reynold's daughter (who knew?!? Oh yes, everyone).

So, I'm sorry, loyal readers, but on the bright side it probably won't get better. According to my baby relationship class, everything gets way worse. Maybe I will just post videos of my infant popping it, because I am pretty sure Anaconda is playing in my uterus.So let's enjoy these moments now, while we still have them:

1. Jennifer Lawrence's response to the photo "scandal"- this is for early in the week, but I was impressed with her articulate and rightfully damning response to the whole incident, which she was right to call a sex crime. I also thought her justification of taking nude photos in the first place was interesting (for the record, I don't think she should have to justify it at all)- setting it up as a kind of competition between herself and pornography (and if Jennifer Lawrence has to play that game, how much trouble are we all in?). I like to think of myself as a very sex-positive feminist (don't disown me, Annie Sprinkle), but I do think that there is a strange and ugly set of relationships going on here between women, images, men, and porn that no one is talking about directly. I don't think it is as simple as a straight antagonism, but I also think that this constant and overwhelming sense of entitlement to women's bodies can be attributed, at least partially, to the fact that female bodies are constantly available and free. She is absolutely right in saying that what they did in the first place was a sex crime (and has anyone really taken reddit to task for this yet? Why is it still happening?), and I respect that she is equally critical about those who chose to look at the pictures, for whatever reason they did, because honestly it is a fucked up and creepy thing to do.I want to think more about this double problem of access and competition.

2. In A World- Great little film, well-written, and romantic without trying so freaking hard. Anything that can pass the Bechdel Test with flying colors, show a woman breaking ground (and being funny and original, and boasting a Geena Davis cameo has to be good stuff. It makes me feel like more women should make more movies, because I have been waiting to watch something this good lately. Also, it's finally giving Demetri Martin his due as a sex symbol and overalls their due as a fashion miracle (ah, I love them- so unflattering, yet so wonderful). I kid. It was way better than the Jason Bateman movie we watched later in the day.

3. Jason Bateman, Winner of Most Specifically Typecast Actor in the World- Bateman is the newly single middle brother with an older and younger brother and one sister he is very close to. Also, his family is dysfunctional. Also, he had love triangles with his older brother. No, not Arrested Development, this was This is Where I Leave You. This film left me with a number of questions:

What is it about Jason Bateman that screams middle son? Does he dream of getting to play another spot in the birth order?
Can we retire walking in on partner cheating with a coworker? This has to have more film representations than actual real life occurrences.
Why does Tina Fey's efforts to cry sincerely just remind me of Liz Lemon and make me laugh?
What happened to Tina Fey's baby? Who was watching her?
Wait, is Timothy Olyphant's name Whorey? Horry? Wha?
Rose Byrne is 10 YEARS younger than Jason Bateman. 10. When he was a senior, she was in second grade. What kind of high school crush could we possibly be talking about here? This gap fools no one.
Why is everyone miserable? Why is life the worst? Why couldn't they just move the sofa bed?

4. International Day of the Girl and National Coming Out Day- Just so much wonderful for one day, though it also serves as a reminder of how much is left to do for the generations coming after ours both in the US and internationally. One posted a lot of cool info about girls today (with the help of Amy P), but also pointed to some of the major issues still facing girls internationally. No one should feel like they have to risk violence just to get water or an education! We can do better (also, how amazing is Malala!?)

5. John Gottman- We are taking the Swedish Bringing Baby Home relationship workshops. I feel strongly that they missed an opportunity by not naming it Bringing up Baby and requiring Katherine Hepburn and Cary Grant voices. Still, we get to watch lectures by the writer of the series, and he is basically my favorite person. He is an epically hilarious mumbler, almost like he mutters to himself but only when making jokes. I enjoy him, and I feel like we are learning, so 7 hours in class feels well-spent.

6. Gene Kelly's smug face- So smug, but it works so well in Singin in the Rain. Also, the "beautiful girls" number, which is just bizarre, totally forgettable, and historically inaccurate. I love it.



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Senin, 02 Juni 2014

How to Accessorise your Vintage Wedding Dress... and the super new-look 'Love My Dress'

Dear Reader

Do you already know Love My Dress? It's a wonderful wedding blog, full of ideas and inspiration by brilliant blogger Annabel. Well, today it's all looking rather new and different... Check out their pretty new design here.

And it reminded me about a post I wrote for Annabel a little while ago, all about accessorising vintage wedding dresses. Just scroll down to see it below. (Some of these beautiful dresses may no longer be available, but do call me to check!) Or visit LoveMyDress to see the original post and admire the lovely redesign at the same time!


HOW TO ACCESSORISE YOUR VINTAGE WEDDING DRESS…


I often get asked by my lovely brides for my advice regarding accessorising 
their vintage wedding dress. With this in mind I have some images to share – 
all the dresses are vintage and are from my own stock at Heavenly Vintage 
Brides, but the accessories are a mix of old {original vintage} and new.
Shoes…
with a short wedding dress like the first few photographed  here, there is  
great scope for fabulous statement shoes, which don't have to be ivory or 
white.  Lots of my Brides wear coloured shoes, red or pink in various shades 
being the most popular.  Several of my lovely brides have chosen the Melissa 
shoe, by Vivienne Westwood {below right in various shades}, and in the 
photo below {left}, the model is wearing Lady Dragon by Vivienne 
Westwood in red.
Shoes

The sweet little 50s tiered lace dress the model above is wearing is 
unfortunately sold, but I will be making some copies of it in the Spring in 
fabulous French lace – keep an eye on my site for news of my own little 

The shoes that my model Patience is wearing below are very modern 
but go well with the dresses, they are in a great nude pink colour which 
make her legs look super-long.

HV1101
The lovely knee length dress here is 1960s Tulip style and has a very 
elegant, couture look and feel. It is approx a size 10 to small 12 and 
priced at £900, and is currently available to try on at the Heavenly 
HV1102
When my clients ask me for shoe ideas,  I often suggest a Spanish 
designer called Chie Mihara, her designs manage to look both vintage 
and contemporary at the same time. Take a look at Chie's website – 
her price start from around £240.
Chie Mihara

Another shoe designer I often suggest to my clients is Rachel Simpson 
whose dainty little shoes have a very vintage feel. I particularly like the 
Ginger style, in gold or silver as seen here. This designer has also just 
collaborated on a new range of shoes for dance-wear specialist Freed of 

A more cost effective alternative is to have a look at Next wedding 
shoes. The prices start from £30 and the shoes are really very pretty, 
and fantastic value. 

Vintage Bling…
I do love a bit of bling, so I often add a vintage brooch to a dress, 
the 1940s brooch Patience is wearing goes well as it's the same age 
as the dress and adds a bit of subtle sparkle, and the diamante pattern 
is quite lacy.
A great place to buy affordable vintage jewellery is the Hammersmith 
Town Hall Vintage Fair, run by Paola of P & A Antique Fairs, I get lots 
of great accessories, and petticoats there.
HV1107
The little white flower and heart hat is by Cherished Vintage and the 
cocktail ring is from Top Shop and is just added for fun…
HV1108
In one shot we have the ultimate accessory -  the 'handbag-sized' dog….! 
In this case JJ, who behaved very well considering she is only a few 
months old!
This dress by the way, is in beautiful cotton lace original vintage number, 
that was worn by a bride in Richmond back in the 1940s. I love the fact 
that I know her name and the year it was worn.  The Bride stored it so 
carefully with a little mother of pearl Bible and a coin dated 1940. It is 
in fantastic condition so it was obviously a treasured possession.
The dress is approximately size 8/10 and priced at £900.
HV1105
The next dress is a 1950s tulle prom style dress. I have used a dainty 
little vintage diamante necklace which belonged to my model Cordelia's 
grandmother. I think it's lovely to try and use a family piece of jewellery 
- it doesn't need to be a valuable piece, just go through 'Granny's' 
jewellery box!
HV1104
The headdress the model is wearing is made from vintage gold leaves 
and delicate diamante jewellery – a design by Cherished Vintage. The 
dress is priced at £850 and is size 8.
HV1103
Headpieces…
The headwear is of course very important an accessory, particularly for 
my photoshoots. I have used a range of styles made by Abby and Debbie 
at the wonderful Cherished Vintage.  They use original vintage jewellery 
to make lovely unique headpieces and bands, and to my delight - great 
little hats, which are a recent addition to their range.  All the headpieces 
I used on my shoot were made by Cherished Vintage.
HV1115
The dress here is a 1960s very classic style with a beaded neckline, and 
tulip skirt. The headdress made from vintage pearl jewellery was perfect 
with it – I needed something very simple in shape, to reflect the simplicity 
of the dress and the beaded neckline, and  It had just the right kind of 
beading and just the right 'weight' to it – again, from Cherished Vintage.
I though the style demanded a simple Audrey Hepburn style hairdo, but  
I made it a bit loose, to keep it modern.  The dress size is approximately 
a size 8.
HV1117
HV1116
Hairstyles are of course very important and I feel that they should echo 
the period of the dress but with a modern feel. Hair styles of the past 
were very fixed and lacquered and these days, girls don't want anything 
quite as stiff. 
Here, I again used a cute little hat from Cherished Vintage, and false 
eyelashes, which are great for capturing that vintage feel.
HV1112
The dress, again modelled by Cordelia is silk organza from the 1950s 
with French Lace appliques, priced at £1200, it has a long sweeping 
train and a beautiful sash and fits approx a size 8. The little hats are 
hand-made on new bases using vintage flowers and textiles, and will 
be a feature of Cherished's ready to wear collection, or can be made 
bespoke to order.
HV1111
HV1110
The dress shown below is again from the 1950s and is beautifully 
constructed with  many panels forming the skirt.  It almost has a corset-like 
effect to draw attention to a neat waist.  It is approximately a size 8 or 
small size 10, and priced at £1100.
HV1114
HV1119
The final dress is a cute sparkly tulle and lace 1950s prom dress with 
pearls and sequins following the pattern of the lace around the neckline.  
I have used a great headpiece which has a sparkly vintage brooch at its 
centre, as of course the sparkles on the dress demand a bit more sparkle 
in the hair!  The dress is a size 8 and priced at £1000.
HV1118
All these dresses are available at Heavenly Vintage Brides, and I love 
to meet Love My Dress brides, so please feel free to contact me to book 
in for an appointment sometime to try some on!
My prices range from £350/400 to around £1250 for an original 
vintage wedding dress. Unfortunately I don't have space to stock many 
accessories,  but I do have some nice original vintage wedding veils, 
and some great cocktail veils – designed by Helena Talbot of HT 
Headwear, that compliment my dresses in the most wonderful way.  
Helena can also create headpiece designs to match your specific ideas.

I hope you've enjoyed this post. Do check out Annabel's blog,
LoveMyDressAnd please do visit me later this week when I'll be 
featuring some fabulous 1930s wedding dresses!
Love
Helena 
Heavenly Vintage Brides

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